Having your own scuba gear, like a scuba regulator, scuba mask, wetsuit, BCD, dive boots, gloves, and fins, will make you feel more comfortable and confident underwater.
If you are looking for a scuba diving regulator, you must find the one that best fits your needs. That depends on what type of diving you do, the features you need and your preferences.
There are so many options and it’s not easy to find the right one. I want to help you make the right choice; that’s why I’ve reviewed the top rated dive regulators, along with those I’ve tested myself, to create this list of the Best Scuba Regulators.
The Best Scuba Diving Regulators
Top End
ATOMIC T3 TITANIUM
The Atomic T3 Titanium is one of the finest dive regulators you’ll find on the market. It’s built of ultralight and durable titanium and features great corrosion resistance and the best breathing performance. It is commonly used for cold and warm water, extreme depths and technical dives. Obviously, it’s not cheap.
Technical info: Balanced piston, warm and cold water.
ATOMIC AQUATICS ST1
The Atomic Aquatics ST1 features a stainless steel first stage with great durability. All the second stage is constructed of ultralight corrosion-resistant titanium. Thanks to its advanced design, low inhalation efforts are needed even at deep depths.
Technical info: Balanced piston, warm and cold water.
SCUBAPRO MK25 EVO A700
The Scubapro M25 EVO A700 features a nice design with a chrome-plated brass body. The exceptional A700 second stage forms the ultimate high airflow system for all diving needs. Whatever your dive destination and style, the SCUBAPRO A700 lets you breathe naturally and effortlessly underwater.
Technical info: Balanced piston, warm and cold water.
SCUBAPRO MK25 EVO/G260
The Scubapro MK 25 EVO G260 is another high-quality diving regulator. Its high performance makes it a great choice for all demanding divers. Like the MK25 EVO 700, it’s resistant and well adapted to use in cold water, but you can get it for a more affordable price.
Technical info: Balanced piston, warm and cold water.
Best Scuba Regulators. Mid Range
SHERWOOD SR2
The Sherwood SR2 is a technically advanced regulator with a great breathing performance. The first stage is completely dry and environmentally sealed. It features five low-pressure ports on a 360-degree swivel, two high-pressure ports and a two-piece piston for precise optimum balance.
Technical info: Balanced piston, warm and cold water.
HOLLIS 200LX
The Hollis 200 LX features a pneumatically balanced PVD valve for great breathing performance, and has an ergonomic design that channels bubbles away from the field of view and reduces exhaust effort.
Technical info: Balanced diaphragm, warm and cold water.
MARES ROVER 15X
The Mares Rover 15X is made of ultralight techno-polymer that guarantees durability and corrosion resistance. The Fluid Dynamic Deflector delivers excellent and natural breathing at any depth and makes it one of the best scuba regulators for its price. Good option for entry-level divers.
Technical info: DFC port, Balanced diaphragm, warm water.
AQUALUNG MIKRON
The Aqualung Mikron features a pneumatically balanced second stage for easy breathing, ultralight resistant construction and great performance in both warm and cold waters. It’s quite compact, which makes it a great option for travelers.
Technical info: Balanced diaphragm, warm and cold water.
Best Scuba Diving Regulators. Budget Friendly
CRESSI AC2
The Cressi AC2 features a second stage regulator with a breakthrough patented design that results in less breathing effort for the diver. This dive regulator is built of high-impact thermo plastic materials and ultra lightweight components, making it perfect for traveling.
Technical info: Balanced diaphragm, warm and cold water.
MARES ROVER 12 S
The Mares Rover 12 S is a great economical buy for the diver on a budget. It’s a simple but ergonomic, resistant and durable dive regulator + Octopus.
Technical info: Balanced diaphragm, warm water.
HOW DOES A REGULATOR WORK?
The regulator is the most complex pat of your scuba equipment. Actually, it’s based on a fairly basic principle. However, a regulator is made from pieces of high-precision and modern engineering.
The regulator takes the compressed air coming from the tank and adjusts it to the pressure we require to breathe. The regulator supplies air only when we inhale and expels the breathed air when we exhale.
A regulator consists mainly of the following parts:
First stage: This is the part connected to the tank. The first stage reduces the air pressure to an intermediate pressure.
Second stage: This is the nozzle we breathe through. The second stage reduces the intermediate air pressure until we get the right pressure to breathe naturally.
Second alternative stage: This works exactly like the second stage. It’s used in emergencies to share air with buddies.
Hoses: Hoses supply air to the different parts of the regulator: the second stage, the BCD (so it can be inflated) and the manometer (to control the amount of air left in the tank).
A few things to take into account to find the Best Scuba Regulator:
WARM OR COLD WATER
Scuba regulators will be more or less demanding depending on the type of diving you do.
If you are a warm water diver, any regulator will do. On the other hand, if you tend to dive in cold water, you’ll need an environmentally sealed first stage that will prevent the air from getting frozen inside the first stage.
FIRST STAGE – PISTON OR DIAPHRAGM
Piston first stages are built with fewer moving parts, having a high-performance and simple design, while the diaphragm first stages use a rubber diaphragm with a heavy spring to operate the valve between the two chambers.
Both systems work extremelly well, but diaphragm first stages usually have better cold water reliability.
BALANCED OR UNBALANCED
A balanced first stage regulator has a consistant air supply at a constant pressure, regardless of the air remaining in the tank.
An unbalanced first stage will make the diver’s breathing effort increase slightly as the tank empties.
PORTS
All regulators include several ports in their construction. Most regulators feature three or four low-/medium-pressure ports for second-stage regulators, BCD inflators, etc., and one or two high-pressure ports for the pressure gauge.
MOUNT TYPES:
The two main types of mounts are yoke and DIN:
YOKE
A yoke mount is placed around the tank valve and screwed with a clamp. This makes it easy and fast to mount and dismount. It is, by far, the most common and popular option. A yoke mount is the first choice of most divers because they can find compatible tanks and mounts all over the world.
DIN
A DIN regulator is screwed directly to the tank with a DIN system. This kind of mount creates a better seal and withstands higher pressures. Although many divers consider them to be a better and more reliable option, they are not very popular among recreational divers. However, for cold water and technical diving, DIN valves tend to be the best choice.
HOSE LENGTH
The most common hose lengths used on regulators are around 70 or 75 cm for the second stage, and 90 cm for the Octopus or backup second stage.
Some experienced and technical divers modify their hose lengths to improve their experience and safety. They dive with specific hose configurations according to the type of dive they are doing.
COMFORT
You must feel comfortable using your new regulator. Ensure that the mouthpiece feels good, allowing you to maintain a natural bite. Avoid regulators that need a firm bite to keep them in place, as your jaw won’t feel comfortable after long dives.
The size of the hose must be right, too – not too short and not too long. Don’t worry too much if it feels a bit heavy at first because that will change once you get underwater.
I also recommend that you get a regulator that doesn’t blow bubbles directly in your face when you exhale. This can be very annoying and will reduce your visibility underwater.
SAFETY
All regulators must go through strict controls to ensure that they meet quality and safety standards. That’s why all regulators, from the cheapest to the most expensive, should be safe to use.
Budget regulators are good and safe options for recreational diving in warm water. What makes a regulator more expensive isn’t safety. Some models are more expensive because they have different systems adapted to technical diving or cold-water diving, among other specialties.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR REGULATOR:
The weakest point of a regulator is the bond in which the hoses are coupled to the first stage. It’s important that from time to time you ensure the hose protections are in good condition.
Make sure all items are securely fastened to your BCD. When diving, don’t let pieces like the manometer or the second alternative stage hang because they can hit the bottom.
Clean your regulator with fresh water after every dive. Don’t completely submerge the first stage. Just clean it with a little water.
Once your regulator is clean, keep it in a dry place protected from the sun.
Other divers also liked:
PADI article: Scuba Diving Regulators
Would you pin it? Thanks
Did you enjoy The Top 10 Best Scuba Regulators? Please, leave a comment!
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. If you click on the link and purchase the item, I will earn advertising fees. There are other affiliate links to REI and Leisure Pro.
Hi, I’m Miguel; Adventure traveler, scuba diver and hiking lover. I have been traveling the world for the last 12 years and I hope my experiences, photos and hiking routes inspire you to travel the world too.
Leave a Reply