Venezuela is a destination that everyone should visit. From idyllic Caribbean beaches to surreally shaped mountains, this country has virtually everything. It’s a shame the economic situation and increasing insecurity don’t help the country’s tourism.
After traveling for four months in the land of Simon Bolivar, I got to explore some really beautiful places like Mount Roraima and Angel Falls. The climb to Mount Roraima is completely different from any other trek you’ve done. Actually, Mount Roraima inspired Sir Arthur Conan Doyle to write the famous novel “The Lost World” as its landscapes seem taken from another planet. If you get to see it with your own eyes, you’ll know what I’m talking about.
The tepuis (“mountain of the gods” in the indigenous Pemon language) are the oldest exposed formations on the planet. These table-shaped mountains are found around the borders of Brazil, Guyana and Venezuela, and create wonderful landscapes of rock cliffs and endless waterfalls.
Would you like to know what the most fascinating hike in the world looks like?
Get into the Venezuelan “Gran Sabana” and complete the hike to Mount Roraima on a budget, without a tour!
Most agencies charge about $200-$300 for the whole trek (which usually includes transportation, guides, porters and food), but my friend Jabi and I decided to do it independently, in the backpacker style!
Note: Even if you don’t take a tour, keep in mind that you should always go with a guide. The summit of Mount Roraima is a real maze!
Route details
Time: 5-6 days
Difficulty: Moderate (medium-high if you don’t have much experience)
Maximum Elevation: 2,810 meters
Hike to Mount Roraima. Itinerary 6 days
Day 1: Paraitepuy – Tek River Camp
Day 2: Tek River Camp – Base Camp
Day 3: Base Camp – Roraima’s Top
Day 4: Explore the Top, Triple Border
Day 5: Roraima’s Top – Tek River Camp
Day 6: Tek River Camp – Paraitepuy – Santa Elena
First stage: Get to Paraitepuy and find a guide
This was strangely the most difficult part of the adventure. If you go with an agency, they will take you by jeep to Paraitepuy, but we had to get there on our own. There is a bus leaving from Santa Elena that takes you to the junction, at San Francisco de Yuruaní.
There should be some public transport from San Francisco to Paraitepuy in the morning, but we did not find any. Finally, we ended up walking pretty much all the way from San Francisco to Paraitepuy. This walk is terrible. It’s a dusty road with full sun exposure. If you bring a light backpack it’s alright, but we were carrying absolutely everything (a lot of kilos). That was a mistake.
We decided to stop a few kilometers before Paraitepuy because it was getting dark (and because we were broken). The next morning we saw a jeep coming and fortunately got a lift to Paraitepuy.
First stage done. Balance of harm: Blisters on both feet and a rash on the legs. Well, it could have been worse!
Once in the village it took us 10 minutes to get a guide. Any of the young villagers will take you to the mountain for a reasonable price. We did not hire a porter, though, just a guide for about $10 a day. After signing up in the guestbook, we were en route!
Tip: Leave all your heavy stuff in Santa Elena and bring a light backpack. You should get to San Francisco very early, find a jeep and ask for a ride to Paraitepuy in exchange for a few dollars.
Second stage: The Hike to Mount Roraima
Day 1: Paraitepuy – Tek Camp
The first day was pretty quiet. The trail was surrounded by huge savannah while the mountains started rising in the background. The tepuis of Roraima and Kukenán welcomed us to a landscape like that in science fiction.
The trail was well marked. Actually, it would be very easy to get up there on your own. The problem is that the top of Roraima is a real maze and you would be unable to move around it without a guide. In addition, the top usually gets pretty cloudy, making it even more challenging. Basically, you have to take a guide for six days when you need one for only one or two days.
That’s the price for exploring the top of the mountain, and believe me, it’s worth it!
Day 2: Tek Camp – Base Camp
After having breakfast at the Tek camp, we kept on our way up. This was a day with beautiful scenery. Step by step we were approaching the two tepuis and getting into the “lost world”. We started to pass the tepui Kukenán on our left and could see several waterfalls coming down its huge cliffs. We reached the base camp and were literally at the foothills of Roraima.
Day 3: Base Camp – Roraima Summit
Although it was not particularly technical, this was a long day, hiking from the 1,900 meters of the base camp to the 2,800 meters of the top. The ascent is done along a natural ramp formed on the mountain that climbs from right to left.
Sometimes the path was muddy and slippery; other times it was full of huge and uncomfortable stones. The most beautiful part of this path was walking below a waterfall that fell from the top.
Finally, we reached the Roraima plateau and got to our hotel (that’s what the guides call the caves where they usually camp). Once we were settled, our guide took us to enjoy the sunset at the nearby Kukenán viewpoint.
Day 4: Exploring the summit of Mount Roraima
As you can imagine, this was the highlight of the expedition! The summit of Roraima is huge and there are many places you can visit. Our guide took us to the Maverick (the highest point of Roraima), the triple border and the Guácharo viewpoint.
Each place was special and unique, but I have to admit that the Guácharo viewpoint left me breathless. It’s a great place to take the typical “sitting-on-the-edge-of-the abyss” photo. The problem is that it’s 800 meters high, and between the vertigo, the wind and your friend having issues to focus on… those seconds sitting there feel very long. In the end it’s worth it (as long as you don’t fall, of course).
The visit to the triple border was also quite interesting because we walked along the summit and saw several rocks with cool shapes. Moreover, the famous triple border is merely a milestone with the names of the three countries. But if you climb over the milestone… you are in three countries simultaneously, which doesn’t happen every day, right?
In addition to those places, the top itself is a great place to explore. It’s a large flat surface with very strange rock formations, flora and fauna. Many animal and plant species are endemic and therefore unique to that mountain. Isn’t that crazy? I remember some nice little black frogs that I could find easily, and also huge spiders, carnivorous plants and hundreds of quartz minerals everywhere. It really seems like another world!
Day 5: Summit of Roraima – Tek Camp
The last day on the top we woke very early and went to visit the window, a viewpoint situated on the face of Roraima opposite the Kukenán tepuy. I loved that place too. It’s a shame that it was quite cloudy and we could barely see Mount Kenunán, but the views of the cliffs were really spectacular.
After that, we visited the pools (also known as the Jacuzzi) and returned to the camp. We had breakfast, picked up our stuff and began our way back to the “normal world”. We overnighted again at the Tek camp.
Day 6: Tek Camp – Paraitepuy – Santa Elena
Our plan was to go back as quickly as possible. Our guide told us that most jeeps get to Paraitepuy very early and often return to Santa Elena without passengers. Knowing that, Jabi and I woke at 4:00 in the morning and left the Tek camp. Once in Paraitepuy we saw a few jeeps coming by and negotiated a ride back to Santa Elena with one of the drivers.
And so ended one of the best adventures of my life! The hike to Mount Roraima is an experience that I highly recommend to everyone!
Budget for Hiking Mount Roraima
We completed the trek for about $50 per person, including food and a guide. That’s the cheapest option, but you need to bring your own tent, sleeping bag, etc. Anyway, talking about budgets in Venezuela doesn’t help much. I mean, if you’re reading this now, tomorrow the bolivar (their currency) can cost half what it does today.
IMPORTANT UPDATE:
I heard that you need to hire an official guide and pay an expensive entrance fee in order to get into the park and pitch your tent, so doing everything on your own on a budget might be not possible anymore. Please, get updated advice before attempting to do everything on your own.
ACCOMMODATION DURING THE TREK
The Tek camp, the base camp and the hotel at the top belong to Mount Roraima National Park. There are designated camping areas but no toilets. Drinking water is found in the nearby rivers.
FOOD
We brought our own food. You can find supermarkets and shops in Santa Elena, but keep in mind that there is virtually nothing in San Francisco and Paraitepuy.
TRANSPORT
If you go by yourself, you’d better take an early bus from Santa Elena to San Francisco. Jeeps with tourists can appear in San Francisco at about 8:00 am, and it is very likely that they will give you a lift to Paraitepuy.
Ask the driver: “me das la cola por favor?” (That’s how they ask for a ride in Venezuela.)
WEATHER. WHEN TO HIKE MOUNT RORAIMA
The dry season runs from December to March. During these months the weather is better but there are not many waterfalls. We went there in July and had a bit of everything: rain, clear skies and many waterfalls coming down the cliffs.
I heard that during the rainy season it can be quite difficult to cross a few rivers, compromising the entire trek.
TIPS FOR HIKING MOUNT RORAIMA
BRING PLASTIC SHIELDS AND MOSQUITO REPELLENT
The weather of the region is rather unpredictable. You’ll have to cross several rivers (with the water going up to your waist), walk in the rain, travel through slippery areas and even pass below a waterfall. Bring a raincoat and plastic sleeves for your camera and other belongings!
Don’t forget the mosquito repellent. The place is just infested by very small and annoying mosquitos. Little fuckers!
DON’T WALK FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO PARAITEPUY
Try not to walk from San Francisco to Parateipuy. Seriously, that walk killed me. As I said before, get to San Francisco as early as you can and find someone to take you to Paraitepuy.
INCLUDE THE GUÁCHARO VIEWPOINT ON YOUR EXPEDITION
Once at the top of Roraima there are many spectacular places to visit. I recommend that you visit the Guácharo viewpoint, where you’ll get the most amazing views ever!
Did you enjoy How to Hike Mount Roraima on a Budget? Leave a comment!
Hi, I’m Miguel; Adventure traveler, scuba diver and hiking lover. I have been traveling the world for the last 12 years and I hope my experiences, photos and hiking routes inspire you to travel the world too.
Hey, we love your blog very much. Next week we are off to Venezuela and are doing Mt Roaima the same way as you did. We only have one question as we have veey different experiences on previous hikes with guide.
Does the guide provide his own food or do we have to supply? Your reply is very much appreciated.
Cheers
Hi Jay! Thank you! I’m glad you like the blog!
if you do it like I did, going to Paraitepui and hiring the guide there, you have to bring extra food for the guide. Maybe you can negociate something different, but we did it that way! 🙂
Good luck!!!
Inspired! Like to hike Mount Roraima best for me with agency. Now in Colombia. Where is best to book the trek?
Hey Angela,
You have to go to Santa Elena. Most hostels will arrange tours, guides, etc. There are also some agencies in the bus station.
Good luck!
Miguel.
Hi and thanks for the great trip report. I think you got lucky with the weather!!
Do you know if it’s posdible to climb Kukenán these days?
Thanks heaps!
Dave
Hi Dave! I’m glad to hear that you had a nice experience! I don’t know about Kukenan.. sorry about that!
Cheers,
Miguel.
Hey Dave, Kukenan is officially not permitted to climb up, as it it holy to the indigenous people. But, if you get to Kumarakapay ask for guide, but always inquire officially about hiking up to Roraima. You will need to make a secret agreement with your guide to get up to Kukenan. Its a bit complicated, but doable. You need to speak Spanish to communicate with the guides. Its all DYO and takes a lot of preparation. You need to bring all food, also for the guide / porter, plenty of plastic bags to carry your number 2 back down (they will scale you bag, YES), also you need to take all rubbish back down, as well.
Thanks guys – lots of amazing options in this part of the world it seems.
Keep the great blogs going!
Hey, thanks for your advise. i’m planning a trip mount Roraima starting the first week of January. the tips and advise from this blog surely will help me to make my trip better and cheaper of course. About the local guide: how easily it is to find a guide in Paraitepuy ? are their English or Portuguese speaking local guides?
Nice blog… keep it up
Hi mate! thanks! 🙂 Getting a guide in Paraitepuy will be really easy.. they are all guides in town. Some will speak very basic english, I don’t think they speak portuguese though. Good luck!
Hi Miguel! Nice article! Just two questions. The cooking equipment (stove, utensil, messtin) did you bring your own equipment or the guide prepared for you? Im guessing that it is hard to find ‘halal’ food there, is it? Thanks.
Hi, we brought our own equipment and food for ourselves and the guide. No idea about halal in Venezuela, but even regular food is difficult to find right now, so imagine. 😉
Safe travels,
Hi there!
I’m right in Santa Elena now and planning to go to Roraima tomorrow or the day after. I’m going to take a taxi to San Francisco (I think it’s safer than hiking in Venezuela now) and then ask jeeps to pick me up.
But I have no cooking equipment, tent and sleeping bag, I have only backpack.
Is it possible to find all this stuff in Paraitepui or should I manage it in San Francisco?
Thank you a lot for you post and your answer!
Hi Roman! Not sure you could get all those things in Paraitepuy. I recommend that you get them in Santa Elena to be sure. It’s too risky otherwise.
Safe travels.
Thank you! I’ll take it in San Francisco. I’ve met two girls here who booked tour in San Francisco much cheaper and rent all the stuff there.
Hello,
I am reading all these comments, interesting.
You talk about cheap tour? How cheap? 100$ Is like the max I can spend
Well, I couldn’t say for sure as prices change rapidly in Venezuela..
Hope it’s not late, but it may be interesting for others.
In January 2018 it was about 70$ for me with food.
But I was lucky to find group of locals in Paratepui to join as tour guide cost $50-$70, but I shared it with the group and it was super cheap.
You can rent sleeping bag and carpet for about 5-10$ in Paratepyi. Not sure about tent, as it was free for me. Paratepyi is cheapest for that.
It’s cheap if you hike with other jeeps, but you should be on the road to Paratepui near Francisco (night there cost $5 or cheaper, bus from Elena – few bucks) early in the morning as jeeps go from there early. Latest back jeep is about 2-3pm. It’s better to pay in bucks and have small notes for that. You should also have your food for about 7 days with you.
Prices are unstable, but quite stable in bucks.
There is no guaranty, I was ready to pay more (for example pay solo for guide). But it’s possible and it’s actually depends on guide cost.
Awesome comment! Thank you very much for the update!
Hi Roman,
How did you get to Santa Elena? Is it from Carcacas? I am planning a trip; however I cannot find info on how to reach this town & from where
Hi, I was traveling by bus. I got there from Ciudad Bolivar.
One more question. Which currency is popular in Paraitepui? Will they accept dollars, reals or bolivars only?
Bolivares for sure, and they might accept dollars, probably. But I’m not sure. I paid in bolivares.
Thank you!
Hey Dave! Did you meet any Americans doing the trek? I’m trying to gauge if it’s safe for me or not.
Hi,
I live in Hungary, Europe, and unfortunately have a little chance to visit Roraima. But I enjoyed very much your concise description how to climb up.
Thanks Galambos!
Awesome that you did it the adventurous way. Since I have no camping equipment and am travelling by myself, I will have to do it with a tour. Thanks for sharing all the information and the pretty photos.
You are welcome Denise! safe travels!
Hi Travelsauro,
have you seen any snake on the route to Mount Roraima?
Regards
Hi Michal, how are you? I did not see any snakes.. although there must be some. Anyway, I wouldn’t worry too much about that.
Hi,
Looks amazing! For the trek up to the summit, is it easy and no risk with vertikal drops beside the trail?
Nice blog by the way
Hi Michael, Thanks for your comment! There are vertical drops once you get to the top, but there are no big risks if you are a bit careful.
Cheers,
Miguel.
Hi there, i want to inter the park starting from boa vista in brazil. Any information on this option? Thanks
Hi Alan, yes that’s a good idea. You have to travel from Boa vista to Santa Elena, and then you can find a tour there, or you can go on your own to San Francisco and then Paraitepuy. Safe travels,
By the way, i realy appreciate your blog. Thanks so much
Where is your next trip?
Thanks buddy!
I am afraid of heights – will I be able to manage the trek up ?
Hi Erin, well, difficult to say. There are huge cliffs, that’s for sure. I guess that depends on you.
How do you think about the current situation in Venezuela.
Are there some tourist and tours to Roraima? As I am travelling solo I will try to join a group in Santa Elena.
Currently I’m not sure about tours to Roraima, but unfortunately the situation is pretty bad.
Hi, nice blogg, you got me insired 🙂 I have couple of questions. Is it possible to hike up in 2 days? (we are in quite god shape)
What is the temperature on the top of the mountain?
Thank you 🙂
Hi, it would be really hard to do it in 2 days, and you would have no time to see the most beautiful spots as they are far away. Safe travels!
Hi, it would be possible to go up in 2 days, but you would need more time to see the most beautiful spots as they are far away (on the top). Safe travels!
Thank you very much.
I am a Korean.
I want to go there.
Hi ! Great article! The only thing we didn’t get was how to do with water.
Did you have a filter? You brought water for 6 days? Any place to get the water along the trekking?
Thanks for your help and great job.
Hi Thomas, the water from the streams and waterfalls is good. Just bring a filter, and you should be fine. Safe travels,
Hi! Really useful information. I’m planning on riding my motorcycle from Colombia through Venezuela. I heard about corrupted cops who is demanding bribes to pass through. Did you hear anything about it? And how close would I be able to get to mountain on off road bike, in your opinion?
Hi Alex, yes, there are plenty of corrupted cops in Venezuela. Don’t show your dollars to them, tell them you have only bolivares. You can get to Paraitepuy by bike, then you’ll need to hire a guide. Safe travels.
Update 2022 August: there are no flights operating from Puerto Ordaz. You need to go to Caracas or organise private tour. Cheapest packages for 2 nights is about 650$ or 730$ from Caracas. You need to go to privately owned posada and hire guide (both mandatory now). You can get camp outside the National Park and hire guide but the tent place will cost you 100$ a night and 100$ entrance so really you won’t save any money.
Unfortunately Venezuela is not much about doing yourself now so there is not other option to turning up on site e.g.
Will update if I get some more info but for now it looks like Angel Fall is not for budget traveler.
Thanks for your info. Really appreciate it.
Hi. Thanks for writing this blog! It has provided great information as I plan my trip to the Gran Sabana.
You are one of few search results that detail a backpacker/diy experience in contrast to the ‘all inclusive’ tours out there charging 700-1000 USD per head.
Wanted to share some of my research as of 2023.
-busing into Santa Elena and finding transportation to Paratepuy is still the way to reach the entrance
-guides (found them on social media) are charging in the range of $50/per day
-porters in the range of $25/day
(Of course, approaching with caution since this is all internet research)
Awesome! Thanks for the update!!